Sunday, April 7, 2024

Arrivederci! Final Thoughts.

 Here's a quick summary of thoughts and tips regarding Italy (Rome, Sorrento, and Naples that is). We know we barely scratched the surface, but hope the following will help others when visiting. This is just a brain dump and in no particular order. 

  • Skip the line tours are a MUST especially when visiting popular sites like the Colosseum and Vatican. Small tours are more intimate and manageable if possible. We'd especially recommend this for multi-city/town tours like for the Amalfi Coast. It allows flexibility between you and your guide.
  • Pompeii can be toured on your own unless you want more depth of information.
  • Amalfi Coast - There was more to do in Sorrento and it was easier to navigate than what we saw of Positano and Amalfi. It felt like a nice blend of the surrounding towns. 
  • Toilets - many don't have toilet seats, so it's good to be prepared with soap leaves, flushable wipes, sanitizer, and other toiletries that may be helpful in this situation. Have 1 or 2 Euro coins for serviced restrooms when they're available. These have all the amenities you need.
  • Adapters - a must! Bring a converter if you bring your own hair dryer. Otherwise, an adapter is sufficient for charging devices or using a curling iron/flat iron.
  • Unless you have a voracious appetite for every meal, splitting food will allow you to not get too full while being able to try more items.
  • Tipping - Similar to other European countries, tipping is not expected. At all. But it's still appreciated when you receive good/exceptional service. Carry 1-2 Euro for tipping. We tipped 10% for excellent service. 
  • Trevi Fountain - Go earlier or at night to avoid large crowds, but check for fountain cleaning times.
  • Gelato - Avoid places with many flavors and have mounds of gelato on display. While they're yummy and aren't bad by any means, the quality isn't the same. Opt for places that have less flavors and keep their gelato in metal containers with lids on them. You won't be able to see the gelato. Order the size first and pay. Then you hand your receipt as a ticket, tell them cone/cup and then you pick flavors - almost all places allow you to pick two flavors even with the smallest size. We recommend all the fruit-based gelatos and sorbets (mango, lemon, banana) but if you're looking for something sweeter, we really liked "Biscotto Della Nonna".
  • Getting around...In most places, especially Rome, you need to walk across streets with confidence or you may get stuck for awhile looking both ways. The traffic is kind of nutty. But watch what the locals do and follow suit and you'll be fine!
  • Clothing - I was really stressed about not dressing sloppily for fear of being frowned upon and I also didn't want to stick out like a tourist. In the end, I reminded myself that I don't care about strangers' opinions and I AM a tourist. However, out of respect for their culture (including dress), we wore jeans, no baseball caps, no sweats/athleisure, and wore our nicest street shoes (that were comfortable for walking miles). If nothing else, just wear black/white/gray and you'll fit right in!
  • Train - Rome rail station was very nice. Your destination will be displayed on the board, but platform won't show for 10-20 minutes before departure time. Make note of your coach # - that is your train car # that you will look for when you get to the platform. There is limited space for medium-large luggage, so getting to your coach earlier is beneficial.
  • When flying out of Naples, keep in mind to leave time to get through their checkin process. Not sure if it was too early in the morning, but the queue to fly to Rome was really long. Thankfully we were able to use the priority line because of my status with Delta. It looked like folks we saw in the regular line made it too, but avoiding unnecessary stress is always a plus in my book! Also note that you may board a bus which will then take you to the plane. Boarding from the ground onto the plane seems to happen in Europe. We experienced it the first time in Ireland so weren't too thrown off when this was the process in Naples.
  • If you fly Delta and via a Sky Team member airline, know that even at the lowest tier of Silver Medallion, you're considered a "sky team elite" member so can get priority check in and boarding.

Prego! We're In Italy Part 2

There was plenty more to explore in Rome. We probably didn't even scratch the surface, but before we knew it, it was time to meet our driver to head to the rail station for a super-speed train ride to Sorrento on the Amalfi Coast. I have wanted to visit for at least a decade after stumbling across a photo I saw on the internet. I was really excited.

But first, a few things to know about the trains...

  • Trenitalia makes it easy to travel from city to city by train quickly. The train was really smooth, clean and an enjoyable way to get from Rome to Naples. Using the app makes it even easier.
  • There are pay-for-use serviced restrooms on the 1st floor (which is the 2nd floor to us - they count what is the 1st floor to us as 0/ground floor which does make sense). ANYWAY, they are very clean and well-maintained. Just need 1 or 2 Euro (can't remember which) to feed the machine to get in. There's a change machine.
  • The boards will have your destination noted. Find your platform that way and know that your platform won't be listed until 10-20 min before departure time.
Our driver (we had private transportation arranged by Riverdale Travel, but you could probably arrange it yourself through Europe Express or Pegaso) dropped us off promptly so we had plenty of time to use the restroom and figure out what we needed to do. The train ride was smooth and I was able to enjoy a book to pass the time. Next thing I knew we arrived in Naples where it was unfortunately raining. We stayed at the Parco dei Principi and I highly recommend it - super friendly staff, very nice rooms, and gorgeous views with a sea view room. I really felt like I could decompress. But before doing that, we needed to get some food in our bellies. Many places were closed because it was early afternoon (common there), but we settled on Pizzeria da Franco. Food was yummy, but portions were bigger than expected. Splitting meals here would be a good idea. After a late lunch and gelato we headed back to our room where I promptly took a much needed nap. After an hour I forced myself awake so that Mark, Keira, and I could explore the beautiful grounds. I bet this place is gorgeous in the late spring/summer when the flowers are in bloom. Even though we weren't really hungry that evening, we decided to go to Convivio for dinner. I unintentionally offended the owner/chef...I ate about ⅓ of my meal only because I was so full from the late (big) lunch. The owner/chef asked if I didn't like it and if that was the case he offered to make something else. I explained the big lunch thing, but I don't think he believed me. Anyway, at one point, they turned up the music and people started dancing - Keira even joined in. It was a very fun moment and memory made!




We officially started our time in the Amalfi Coast with a guided tour of Positano, Amalfi, and Ravello. We lucked out and ended up having the tour van and guide all to ourselves due to a last minute cancellation. There would've only been 8 of us anyway, but we can't complain about the private tour! Antonio was our tour guide and despite the drizzly, cool weather he made the tour fun and interesting. We were able to avoid the rain until the very end, but Antonio took us to a local spot for lunch and helped us order a delicious meal before dropping us off back at the hotel.

But first...the tour. Antonio picked us up in the morning and Positano was our first stop. I was surprised at how steep the hills were and amazed at the buildings that looked as if they emerged from the sides of the mountain. While we only had about an hour to explore, I saw enough to know that I was happy we ended up staying in Sorrento instead of Positano which seemed much smaller than Sorrento. Nonetheless, we got some great photos of the area at the base on the beach. Afterward we headed toward the town of Amalfi. I wish we had more time there as we could've used more time to explore all the shops - not just for clothing, but for pastries, artisan shops, and even a paper store. Apparently Amalfi is known for it's paper and this store even supplies for the Pope. I loved the "donuts" (not sure what they're actually called) at Andrea Pansa - well worth the short line and I could've spent an hour alone in the paper store, Tabula. In the end, we picked up some stationery cards and bookmarks. We also toured the local church there and got some Instagram-worthy photos too.





Finally, we ended our time in Ravello. The most memorable part being lunch at Ristorante & Pizzeria Al Valico di Chiunzi. Antonio ordered us a lovely meal to end our tour. After a long (but fun and interesting) day of touring, we were back at the hotel for late afternoon naps and relaxation. The rest of the evening was spent having dinner at Bar del Carmine and shopping in the town. Our favorite things to look for were leather goods and scarves. We found souvenirs and gifts for family and friends.

Our next full day was spent first with a leisurely breakfast at the hotel. It was wonderful to look out over the Mediterranean while enjoying a delicious breakfast.



 Then it was time to walk to the street to hop the shuttle to our guided tour of Pompeii. While the history of Pompeii is very interesting, I think the near-two-hour tour was a bit much. Given that the entry lines were not too bad, I'd recommend doing this tour on your own unless you want more detailed info and the opportunity to ask questions. After a while, most of the ruined buildings started to look the same. I'm also not great at imagining things so a tour filled with "imagine this or that" became a bit boring. 


One of the more entertaining anecdotes were phallic symbols like in this picture above which conveniently pointed to the brothel back in the day. Oh my!

We still had half the day left following the tour, so enjoyed a late lunch, more shopping, and then had time to enjoy the terrace, relax, enjoy the sunset, and pack to head to Naples the following day.






By the time we got to Naples, Keira was exhausted so we left her in the room while we grabbed some lunch. It was a beautiful day so we it was lovely to enjoy a meal outside. However, I personally didn't enjoy Naples as much as everywhere else we had been. It was more urban and crowded whereas I preferred the slower pace of coastal living and the laid back vibe in Rome. But we made the most of it with meals and more shopping - many more street vendors available.








We didn't explore too much because we had to pack for our flight home and had a really early pickup time - 4am. Yuck. The airport situation was a little crazy when we got there, but we had a laugh when the passport controller tried to usher Keira into the 14 and under line. When I told him she was sixteen, he was surprised and said, "She's 16?! Why so small???" Hahaha!! We had a good laugh over that. Due to KLM changing our flights (fortunately a couple of weeks before we left) we only had an hour once we landed in Rome to get on our flight to Boston. It was the closest I've come to missing a flight. We were among the last 4 people to get on the plane. Whew! Our flights home were uneventful other than Keira getting randomly selected for screening at the airport, but me having to take her place because she's a minor. Laugh was on me and we came full circle to when Mark had to get screened at the start of our trip.





Saturday, April 6, 2024

Mangia, Mangia - We're in Italy!!

 I could've sworn I posted after 2021, but according to the ones I see, that doesn't seem to be the case. Well, here we are post-pandemic and Keira's junior year of high school. Time really does fly! We recently came back from a spring break vacation in Italy. It was wonderful! Hopefully we'll get back there someday to explore the many regions and cities we didn't get to.

Our adventures kicked off from MSP with Mark getting chosen for a random airport screening. I got a kick out of it because I am usually the one who is "randomly" selected. It was a long flight to Amsterdam where Mark had the experience of assisting his seat mate who got up to use the bathroom, but then passed out. Thank goodness Mark kept his wits about him and called over flight attendants who assisted the man. The dude was okay besides some scrapes when he fell. They assumed dehydration. Scary!

We had a 4-hour layover so spent some time going through passport control (leave at least an hour for that though they will pull you into the shorter line once you're about 40 min from departure time), rested and got sncaks in the airport lounge, bought some stroopwafels, and then boarded the plane for another 2.5 hour flight to Rome. By the time we got there, we were exhausted, but quickly settled in our room and headed out to dinner, got some gelato and were in bed by 10pm.

Our first full day took us to the Colosseum after enormous efforts to wake up as our bodies resisted the time change. The Colosseum was, well, colossal! Getting the skip-the-line tour via Viator was a must. The line to get in was quite long and we would've spent at least an hour, likely more, without the tour passes. We also toured the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill via this tour. One thing to note is the restrooms here (and in many places throughout Rome) did not have toilet seats. I guess it's normal and the reasons are that they often break, are difficult to clean, etc. You should practice your squats and hovering just in case. Other places have pay-to-use restrooms which are better kept, but not readily available. When you can find them, the 1 or 2 Euros is worth it! ANYWAY,  we enjoyed the Colosseum though some spots got quite crowded and that was annoying, but nothing that would hinder the experience.




From the Colosseum we were able to walk back toward our hotel. On the way, we stopped by Trevi Fountain. You will know when you're there because of the fountain itself, but also because you will see a hoard of people taking pictures - all trying to get that perfect shot for Instagram! We tried too, but not that hard. One of the bright spots was ducking into a restaurant called Pizza in Trevi. It sounds like it might be Americanized or geared toward tourists, but it was fantastic and lived up to the reviews.




By the time we got back to the hotel, we were tired, so rested for a little while before getting gelato at Osa gelato and calling it a day.

Our second full day, we got up earl(ier) to go back to the Trevi Fountain to see if we could get perfect Instagram shots for Keira. Just our luck, they were cleaning the fountain! So, check for that schedule before you head there or you may be disappointed like we were. Oh well!

We hailed a taxi and headed toward the Vatican. Once again, get the skip-the-line tour...The line for the Vatican was unlike anything we've seen before. Granted that could've been because we went the week leading up to Easter, but wow...We were so thankful for the tour and being able to skip THAT line. We really enjoyed our tour through Viator - Robert was our tour guide and he was wonderful! We had a laugh because Mark though he was biting into a chunk of cheese as part of his breakfast between the Taxi ride and arriving to the Vatican, but it turned out to be butter. LOL! I wish I could've captured the look on his face - priceless!

Back to the Vatican...Be prepared for crowds. I wasn't able to enjoy the Sistine Chapel (pics not allowed) because my claustrophobia set in big time. Enclosed spaces with lots of people weren't an issue anywhere else, just in the Sistine Chapel unfortunately. It was so bad that I very nearly dropped the f-bomb while there. That would've been a memory! I enjoyed touring the Vatican and St. Peter's Basilica the most. They were all amazing in their own way and I was never bored. That's a win! Afterward, we stopped into the shops and picked up a couple of things for my parents-in-law who were kindly looking after Rex while we were away. On the way back to our hotel, we stumbled upon Cremilla - an absolute gem for gelato. Yummy! (Tip: Best gelato are in the gelaterias where the gelato is stored in metal containers vs. heaping mounds of it on display. You order your size first, pay, and then choose cup/cone and flavors.)

After resting in the hotel, we made our way to Trastevere on foot. It's a cute, Bohemian area. We didn't explore much because we were exhausted, so I'm sure we missed quite a bit. But we randomly chose a restaurant and enjoyed a lovely dinner outside. It was the most Italy thing to do in Italy - that and enjoying a limoncello after every meal. Most places even served Keira one. I only enjoyed half a shot, but Mark seemed fine enjoying mine and Keira's too. One of the funny moments was when I tried to pour water for Keira only to it pour out in a trickle - it took me a second to realize the cap was still on it. Another moment to laugh...at me!






And that wraps up our adventures in Rome! On to the Amalfi Coast!!