Tuesday, April 1, 2014

Thoughts and Tips for Paris

Even though I've only been to Paris once and don't speak French at all, I thought I'd share some of my thoughts and tips gathered on this trip in case it's useful to any of you who may decide to travel to Paris in the future. Obviously you should check with other family and friends to gather info, as well as consult the experts (I highly recommend Rick Steve's books and online resources), but hopefully some of this is useful to you too. 

Speaking French, Parisians and Eating Out
Speaking French...This was by far my biggest concern. I had heard from multiple people that the French are rude and don't like Americans, especially if you can't speak the language. I set out to learn French quickly  because I didn't want the French hating me!! I thought my background in Spanish (college-level fluency) and being bi-lingual (Vietnamese) would make it easy, but I just didn't have enough time, especially once I started my new job. There is an app called Duolingo that was helpful and fun, but again, it takes time. So, off I went hoping that Mark's high-school French and the key phrases I learned would get me through and not offend anyone along the way.

Here's what I learned...Do NOT stress about it. The first truth is almost everyone speaks a little English. Certainly it seemed there were more people who spoke some English than you'd find with Americans speaking a language other than English. And, what doesn't translate in English or in French you can accomplish with a lot of gesturing. I found that "Bonjour" and "Au Revoir", as well as "Parlez vous anglais" got me through Paris just fine! We only came across one woman (at the metro station) who said she did not speak English - whether she could or just refused to, we don't know, but Mark ended up using a little broken French and pointing to the signs on the ticket window to get what we needed. And, if this happens to you and you can't get across what you need, you can always ask someone else.

The second truth is that Parisians are really nice and are not rude at all. I actually found them to be nicer than New Yorkers and those on the East Coast. No offense to my New York and East Coast friends, but you all have a reputation for being more direct and gruff than passive, Minnesota-nice. As long as you are kind and courteous when addressing people, you get it in return. Imagine that! And, always remember, speaking louder doesn't make it easier for anyone to actually understand you. 

A third truth...the waiters and waitresses at restaurants and cafes are efficient. Some were friendly like back home, but most were there to do their job. Don't take it as being rude. They don't work for tips like in the U.S., so they don't have an incentive to go the extra mile. They do a good job and are courteous. You do have to ask for the bill though. I think the fourth truth is that restaurants/cafes expect you to sit around and chat. We were used to getting the bill when our plates were cleared, but that pretty much never happened. We always had to specifically ask for the bill. As for tipping, it felt weird not to tip, but I was thankful because the cost is much higher than back home for a meal. We often just rounded up or didn't tip at all. I've learned that's totally normal even though it's contrary to what we know.

Traveling with Children
There were many who were incredulous about us taking Keira with us on this trip. But, let's just say Keira is not a beach-vacation kind of kid with her skin breaking out in weird rashes (hopefully she'll outgrow it one day!), so this was a much better fit for our finicky daughter. I was a bit nervous about the long flight and not knowing what to expect in the city. However, I calmed those anxieties by realizing that French people have kids too so there must be things for kids to do and enjoy. I was right and am so, so thankful that we took her along. She even said that Paris was (kind of) better than Disney World!! Mark and I spent time making sure that we included things that she was excited to see such as the Eiffel Tower and art by Monet and Van Gogh. Additionally we researched and made sure that parks and playgrounds were part of our itinerary. Kids love parks and playgrounds no matter where they are. As for the bathrooms...There are many of them at all the major sites, so as long as you're touring those areas, bathrooms are a non-issue. And, even when you're not, there are plenty of pay-to-use bathrooms around. When desperate, you can always buy a cup of coffee or pastry and use the establishment's rest room. No worries at all. It turns out I was the one that needed a bathroom every couple of hours anyway. I'm pretty sure Keira's bladder makes up most of her tiny body. Ha! In the end, you know your kid(s) best so go with your gut.

By the way, here's a site with great ideas for visiting Paris with kids (Paris with Kids).

The Metro and Making the Most of Your Time
I was really looking into getting the Paris Metro Pass so I could go from zone to zone without worrying about it. Mark really dug into this and figured out that the best value for the three of us was to buy carnets (discounted bundle of metro tickets) to get around the city and then buy supplemental RER tickets to go outside of the city, i.e. airport and Versailles. It worked out perfectly and saved us quite a bit of money. I'd recommend getting acquainted with the metro lines before leaving so you aren't completely unfamiliar when you arrive. Here's a site that had some really good info - it's a blog, but filled with valuable info (Paris by Train). And, if you want more info or have specific questions, I'd be happy to connect you with Mark. He did a great job of navigating us on the metro, RER and the Gare systems.

FYI - the ticket machines did NOT take our credit cards. Your card needs to be chip and pin. We ended up having to go to the ticket windows to buy all of our metro and RER tickets. There you can use your credit card or pay with Euros.

I started a new job a month before our departure so didn't get to research and plan as much of our trip as I had hoped. Fortunately, Mark was able to take over and did a great job at the helm. I pretty much provided him a list of all the places and sites I wanted to visit. From there he planned out an itinerary. We kept the itinerary flexible which was good because we had to adjust based on weather, how we were feeling, etc. In the end, we pretty much did everything except the river boat ride down the Seine, but that wasn't on my top list of things to do. Plus, with previous boat rides we all got pretty antsy and bored. We like to be on the go! Anyway, here's a site Mark used that he said was very helpful for planning (Visit a City). You can pick a city and indicate how many days you'll be there and it'll help you create itineraries. He tried to tackle the city in sections so that we weren't crossing all over the city - whenever possible, anyway.

The Museum Pass
I will echo Rick Steve's and the many resources we looked into, you should get the Museum Pass if you're going to visit a lot of the sites. Not only does it save you money, but at some locations it lets you bypass long lines. It was definitely a good choice. If you've been to the city before and will be skipping many of the sites, than it's probably not worth it. If you estimate about 10 Euro per site (a little high for some sites and a little low, but a good average) you can figure out if this is right for you. For us, it was great - covering Musee d'Orsay, Musee Rodin, La Louvre, Arc de Triomphe, Musee de l'Armee, etc. Here's a link to learn more. It's not the easiest site to navigate, but if you click around, you'll find the info you're looking for, including pricing and a list of the places it covers (Museum Pass).

Money and Tipping
Every merchant we went to accepted our credit cards using a handheld credit card machine. That being said we did go to a local bank to exchange for some Euros prior to leaving just in case. You never know if the merchants' systems could be down.

While we didn't experience it, we heard from many people (including my cousin who was almost a victim) that there are a lot of pick-pockets in Paris. There are also signs everywhere, especially in the metro stations, to beware of pick-pockets. To combat that Mark carried his wallet in his front pocket (which he does, anyway) and I carried a cross-body bag with a front-facing zipper that I was able to flip and have facing my body. But, of course, staying alert is the best defense.

As for tipping, it was very uncomfortable at first to not tip, but soon I rather enjoyed it. Things were more expensive, but I think when you add in tipping (for eating out, anyway) it was pretty comparable to being at home. Our exchange rate ranged between $1.38 and $1.45 per 1 Euro when we were there (end of March 2014).

The Weather and Walking
We were only there end of March, but learned that there can be huge variations in weather - much like in Minnesota. The first few days were gray and drizzling. Despite temps in the mid-50's it got cold with the wind and rain. I'd recommend bringing an umbrella because the weather could change on a dime. We did good with layering and would often duck into cafes and other indoor sites on cold weather days. I've heard it's gorgeous in April and May and starts to get pretty warm and muggy in the summer - much like many other large, metropolitan cities across the world. Use your weather apps while you're there to plan what you're going to wear.

As for walking - even with the metro system we did a LOT of walking. I'm not sure I could've handled anymore by our last day. It was probably a mistake to break in a new pair of boots I had just bought prior to the trip. I tried to blend in with the locals so stuck to neutrals and a comfy pair of feminine-military-combat boots, but there were plenty of tourists who ran around in their athletic shoes and comfy clothes, so do what's comfortable for you and especially make sure you are wearing shoes you can trek for miles in. I was actually a little bummed I didn't get to parade the wardrobe I had packed. We didn't remove jackets until the last couple of days of the trip.

Those are my quick thoughts. If you want to hear more or have questions, I'd be more than happy to share my experiences. All in all, if you have the opportunity and even the slightest desire to visit Paris, you should. You won't be disappointed. 

Paris - Day 6 - Time to pack it up and head home

Surprisingly Keira said she'd like to stay a few more days. I certainly would've liked to stay longer too. But, real life was waiting and we had to get back. Our return flight went very well. Mark and Keira didn't sleep at all. I, on the other hand, passed out for a solid hour almost as soon as we took off. Paris was absolutely amazing and I hope to get back some day. I'd love to continue to discover more in the city of Paris, but would also like to get to the South of France - maybe St. Tropez or Nice. I'm hooked and look forward to coming back to France, but also exploring more of Europe. With each trip (Mexico, Costa Rica, France) I hope Keira catches the travel bug and will continue to want to see the world when she grows up and I sure hope she wants to take her parents along with her. A mom can hope, right?!

A bientôt France!

View from top of Notre Dame

Paris - Day 5 - Sacre Coeur, Park, Avenue de Choisy

Our 5th and final day was a much more relaxing day knowing that we had gotten to almost everything we wanted to do that was on our list. I don't think we would've been able to do so if we had spent more time in the Louvre. So, if you really enjoy museums and works of art, I'd recommend adding a couple more days to spend sufficient time for that. Additionally, Versailles could've easily been a full day if you want to walk the full gardens and tour all the buildings there.

We woke up and headed out later in the morning. It was wonderful to have another sunny and warmish day. I really wish it's the weather we had the entire time, but there's something very Paris-like to walk around with an umbrella, so I can't really complain. We grabbed the metro and headed to Sacre Coeur (Sacred Heart) - another beautiful place I never would've thought to visit, but Mark insisted and I'm so glad he did. We had more leisure time to stop in some shops, have some gelato, play in the plaza and enjoy being there. It was great.

Enjoying the French version of a hot dog before climbing to Sacre Coeur

Another 200+ steps to the top

Getting her portrait done at Place de Tertre

After a leisurely morning we hopped the metro and went to Jardin du Luxembourg which was my favorite park even though you have to pay to use the bathroom (pretty common, but the first one we came across). It was easy to imagine being a Parisian soaking up sun along the gorgeous fountain or taking the kids to the huge play area for some afternoon fun. It's a beautiful, beautiful part of Paris. Keira certainly had a blast and even played on the see-saw with another little kid. I love how kids just play together without self-consciousness.

Palais du Luxembourg

Daddy and daughter strolling hand in hand

Photographer at work

My beautiful girl

Channeling Spiderman

Playing with a new friend

Taking a break from hard play

Peek-a-boo

After Luxembourg it was time to wind down with some dinner and then head back to the hotel to pack up for our flight home. We decided to head over the Avenue de Choisy. It's kind of like Paris's Chinatown though not as busy, big or obvious as in cities like San Francisco. I thought it'd be great to hit up a Vietnamese restaurant knowing that many Vietnamese people settled in France after the war.  We got off the metro a bit too early so hiked and worked up an appetite. I hit up some older folks and asked them for their recommendation of a great place to get some pho. It was great to speak with the m and have them understand me. No language barrier with my Vietnamese! We ended up at Song Huong and it was good - I was stuffed. 

Avenue de Choisy - Song Huong is along this street

Following dinner we hopped the metro (the stop was actually much closer than where we got off) and headed back to the hotel. Did I mention Keira became quite the metro expert. She fed her ticket, retrieved it and went through all the gates after the first couple of times. The system is just that easy. Mark had a firm grasp of the lines and where to go and by the end of our trip I was getting the hang of it. I did spend most of my time on the metro listening to the pronunciation of all the stops to improve my French. I think my accent was pretty good. Mark may tell you differently. I did order food and hot chocolate from a stand all by myself. Mark did most of the ordering when we were together, but he's the one who had a little experience with the language from high school French. I pretty much knew "Bonjour" and "Au Revoir" when we left. I have more in my arsenal now. 


Paris - Day 4 - Versailles, Museums, Arc de Triomphe

Another jam-packed day for the Three Muskateers. Though it was later than we wanted (in trade for more sleep) we headed out to Versailles on the RER and spent half the day there. Holy cow! That place is huge and incredible. At least we finally had warmer weather, sunshine and blue skies - finally. I wish the gardens were flourishing and the fountains were running, but with photos I had seen and a bit of imagination, I could see it. Even without everything in bloom, the property and gardens were gorgeous. I was amazed by the building and the structure itself. Keira loved seeing all the fancy beds and rooms.
Approaching Versailles

An organist played a haunting melody

The hall of mirrors was gorgeous

Giant painting - Coronation of Napoleon and Empress Josephine (I think)

Outside the golden gates

The rest of the afternoon and early evening were spent going through the Musee d'Orsay, adding our lock to the collection of locks on one of the many bridges covered in locks (despite Parisians growing disdain for them), a park, and the Orangerie. We couldn't take pictures in the Orsay or the Orangerie, so don't have any to show, but they were both covered with the Museum Pass. Yay! Of all the museums I enjoyed the Orangerie the most as Monet's Water Lilies were gorgeous - spanning enormous walls throughout. It was fun for Keira to see as well. She learned a lot about Van Gogh and Monet in art class at school. We even picked up a Monet bookmark for her art teacher.

Outside the Musee d'Orsay

Our lock - more to leave our mark than "locking our love"

This is at the Pont Solferino near the Orsay

Carousel in the Jardin des Tuileries

Even dad enjoyed the spinning teacup on the carousel

Having fun jumping on the trampolines in the park

Deep in thought - how Parisian
After the jam-packed morning and afternoon we went back to the hotel to rest for about an hour. Then we headed out again to conquer the Arc de Triomphe (pun intended) and Champs Elysees. It turns out there was some big meeting between France and China so some of the stops were closed on the metro, as were sections of the street of the Champs Elysees. Fortunately we were able to walk the full length - just sections of the street were closed off. Once again we climbed the Arc de Triomphe. I don't know how many stairs, but compared to Notre Dame and the Eiffel Tower, I'd guess about 300 steps or so - a lot of them. Once again, Mark and Keira got to the top without issue. I welcomed the short stop at about 250 stairs before continuing the rest of the way to the top. 

The traffic mess in the round about below the Arc de Triomphe.
You can see the empty, closed streets of the Champs Elysees.

The Arc de Triomphe - monumental indeed!

The most profitable McD's belongs to the one on the Champs Elysees

Place de la Concorde

Paris - Day 3 - Museums and the Eiffel Tower

Understandably we slept in on Day 3. We were all tired and I think we all slept really well - I know I did! There is something about being on vacation too - not having to worry about work, housework, etc. It helps with relaxing and getting good sleep. After sleeping and a slow start we left the room around 11:00 to explore more of what Paris had to offer.

Our first stop was Musee Rodin (covered by the Museum Pass). As you can imagine this is a museum dedicated to the works of Auguste Rodin. I didn't realize how many of his works I knew. There were also some works by Monet, Renoir and Van Gogh among others that were also in this museum. I actually really enjoyed it and that's coming from someone who doesn't know much about art and doesn't generally enjoy visiting museums. Not only was it fun to see the art, but the museum (an old mansion, I think) and the grounds were really pretty and fun to explore too.
Keira loved having her own camera and taking pictures

Here's one I recognized - The Kiss

Keira thought seeing the "duck butt" was hysterically funny

Family photo in the gardens at Musee Rodin

During Day 3 we also walked over to Musee de l'Armee which is a national military museum where Napoleon's tomb is located in the church dome. It was pretty amazing to see all the artifacts including armor, swords, guns, lances, etc. It was quite the collection! As for Napoleon's tomb - holy cow that thing is huge and gorgeous. I thought Napoleon was a small man so maybe his horse was buried with him.
Outside the Musee de l'Armee (rain droplet on the lens)

Amazing 

Can you believe there was armor for children?

Under the church dome

Napoleon's tomb - so ornate and enormous
To refuel and wander we walked over to Rue Cler and enjoyed all the markets. We stopped into a cupcake shop and I loved the banana cupcake!! I think the shop was called Berko. We also bought some fresh raspberries and Keira devoured them. It's a fun area to wander in to see what it might be like to live in the neighborhood and go to the market. Plus, according to many of the resources I referenced, it's considered one of the best street markets in Paris.

After Rue Cler we decided we needed to go back to the hotel and rest. We were all pretty tired. We ventured back on the metro and hung out in the room for a bit. Around 7:00 we ventured out for dinner at Cafe Entienne which was nearby. Despite it being a little smoky, it was a pretty chic and fun pub to grab a quick bite. Then we made our way to the thing both Keira and I were most looking forward to - la Tour Eiffel. Following a metro ride and a short walk...there we were. Shortly after this first photo, the tower lit up and Keira exclaimed, "This is the most amazing thing ever!!!" and that made everything worth it. You can hear her delightful giggling in the video below too. Such a beautiful sound.
First photo in front of the Eiffel Tower


I finally figured out how to use the camera at night
Because the line for the lift (elevator) was super duper long (we were unable to get advanced tickets as this monument is not covered by the Museum Pass) we decided to get tickets to walk up the stairs to the first level and go from there. Yes, we paid money to climb the tower. By my count it was about 350 stairs, give or take a few. Before I go any further, let me say that I have an insane fear of heights (and birds, but that's another story). It was a long climb for me. Mark and Keira were fearless and quickly made their way up the stairs. After all the stair climbs and walking I made a mental note to get back in the gym because it all seemed effortless for Mark and Keira while I not only freaked out over the height, but also huffed and puffed my way up. The effort was worth it! It was amazing.

One of the great photos of the city from the 1st level
Unfortunately, I didn't have the nerve to continue the climb and it was getting really late so we didn't go any higher. (Keep in mind that we went to the top of the fake Eiffel tower in Las Vegas years ago and I nearly hyperventilated going up that in an elevator.) Plus, I couldn't imagine trying to go back down. Just descending from the 1st level almost had me in tears. I white-knuckled the handrails on both sides and did some deep breathing exercises to compose myself. It's a wonder how I've done some of the dare devil things I've done (sky diving, zip lining, etc) because heights are one of my biggest fears. Good thing Keira is fearless like her dad. There were glass sections in portions of the first level that allowed you to see straight down through obscure glass. Mark and Keira stood right on top of the glass and relished in my inability to do so. Despite the fear and terror, I'm so glad we went up the tower. I'll never forget it.

Fun on the metro on our way back from the Eiffel Tower - all smiles!

And that is the end of Day 3!

Paris - Day 2 - Saint Malo, Mont St. Michel and Dinand

You'd think we'd sleep in after all the travel and lack of sleep from the previous day(s), but that's not how the Favre family rolls. Instead we woke up at 5:30am on our second day and were on the metro by 6:30 to catch a train at Gare Montparnasse - that'd be the station for the 'super train' as I call it. We grabbed breakfast on the way - nothing like a pain au chocolat to start the day!

Riding the train was a wonderful way to see all the countryside of France along the way. It was a very easy and comfortable ride despite being a 3-hour trip. Once again, Keira was amazing and didn't have one complaint. Her iPad, stuffed animal friends, crayons and paper kept her sufficiently occupied.

Settling in with Princess Puppy and some Cheerios to snack on

Staying occupied with the iPhone

We arrived in Saint Malo and were greeted by our tour guides and also met up with a couple of gals from Canada. I have since forgotten their names. I'm horrible with names. We used Westcapades (Westcapade Tours) who specializes in the Bretagne (Brittany) region among other tours and destinations/events. Our tour guide spoke perfect English, albeit with a lovely French accent. I'd recommend them - the van was very comfortable and the info they imparted was just enough - not too much talking and not too little.

The first town we visited on our way to Mont St. Michel was Saint Malo. Those of you who are into celebrity gossip mags might recognize this name as one of the locations in which Johnny Depp filmed Pirates of the Carribean. Unfortunately, he was no longer there by the time we arrived. That would've been icing on the cake! However, the town itself was icing on the cake. It was so quaint and just perfect. I had the best pain au chocolat avec amandes of the trip at a little market along the street. I really should've been better about writing down the names of places. Oh, well. Anyway, we walked along the wall and were able to take in many, many views of this beautiful town. I wish we had more time to spend there and I wish it hadn't been so cold (damp and windy), but I enjoyed the time we had.
Saint Malo

Up on the wall

Enjoying French pizza - Keira loved it!

One of the many beautiful structures on this trip

Following our walk around Saint Malo, we got back on the van to travel to Mont St. Michel. It looked amazing from the distance and was even more magnificent up close. I have to admit I was a little hesitant about making this trip because it'd be a full day excursion, but I'm so glad we did (thanks Mark for planning this!). It's something you should see if you can.

Finally getting a little nap in

Another major climb and descent - lots of stairs on this trip

A little sword play - pretty sure Keira would win

Keira took this picture. She's a budding photographer.

The queen of her castle, or monastery

Another photo by Keiraboo

One of my fave pics of Keira at Mont St. Michel

Many shops in the town to explore

What a great excursion this was!

Apparently here it's ok for them to hold hands

Day 2 ended with time in another town called Dinand. Unfortunately by then, the rain clouds were completely overhead and it was just too cold to bear. We didn't get to explore much of the town, but did find a cozy pub to hang out in. It was a wonderful way to close out the experience.

Family photo in the pub

Warming up by the fire

She found a little heart-shaped cracker
Our adventure ended in Rennes where we caught the super train back to Paris. By the time we got back to our room and in bed, it was near 11pm so it was a long and wonderfully exhausting outing for us. Before we went to bed we agreed not to set our alarm!